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ARGENTINA
Makes about 2 1/2 cups
Traditional chimichurri is a garlicky green sauce made with olive oil and fresh parsley. But many variations exist in Argentina and Uruguay, including red chimichurri-a specialty of the venerable Buenos Aires steak house La Cabaña. This chimichurri differs from most in two significant ways: It’s cooked (most are raw) and it’s flavored with anchovies and tuna. The former suggests parentage with two other of the world’s great steak sauces, A-1 and Worcestershire, while the latter recalls Italy’s tonnato sauce, which is so delightful with cold roast veal or grilled beef and seafood. Here’s how I imagine La Cabaña prepares the sauce.
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 red bell pepper, medium, stemmed, seeded, and diced
1/2 carrot, medium, peeled and diced
2 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and diced
1/4 onion, medium, diced
1 rib celery, medium, diced
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 tablespoons tuna, drained canned water-packed
1 anchovy fillet, canned, drained and chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf)
2 teaspoons capers, drained
1 cup tomato sauce
1/2 cup chicken broth or water
1/4 cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or more to taste
1 teaspoon oregano, dried
Salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper
1. Heat the oil in a medium-size nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Add the bell pepper, carrot, scallions, onion, celery, and garlic and sauté until softened but not brown, about 5 minutes.
2. Stir in the tuna, anchovy, parsley, capers, tomato sauce, broth, tomato paste, 1 tablespoon vinegar, oregano, and salt and black pepper and cook, uncovered, until thick and fragrant, about 10 minutes.
3. Transfer the sauce to a blender or food processor and process to a purée, then return to the pan and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt or vinegar as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot or at room temperature. The sauce can be stored, tightly covered in the refrigerator, for up to 3 days.
Makes about 2 1/2 cups
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