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JAPAN
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
These creamy, sweet-salty sauces are two of the glories of Japanese grilling. You find them at humble yakitori parlors and at grand restaurants. They owe their rich tangy flavor to miso, a nutritious paste made from cultured (fermented) soy beans and grains. It’s impossible to describe the exact flavor of miso, but if you imagine the salty tang of a bouillon cube crossed with the richness of cream cheese, you’ll start to get the idea. Miso is readily available in natural foods stores and Japanese markets, and in the produce section of many supermarkets. Stored in the refrigerator, it keeps almost indefinitely. Below are two miso barbecue sauces used widely in Japanese grilling.
White Miso Barbecue Sauce
White miso (actually it’s beige in color) is the most readily available miso, and is best known as an ingredient in miso soup and miso salad dressing. Called shiro-miso in Japanese, it’s made with soybeans and rice, which give it a sweet flavor. This recipe breaks with tradition in two ways. First, I’ve substituted commercial mayonnaise for the customary egg yolks. Sometimes the sauce is served warmed but not cooked, so I prefer not to use raw yolks. Second, I use vegetable stock instead of dashi (a light fish broth made with dried bonito flakes and kelp). The purist could certainly use 2 egg yolks and 2 tablespoons dashi instead. White miso is delicious on grilled tofu and vegetables.
1 cup white miso
2 tablespoons sake or dry sherry
2 tablespoons rice cooking wine (mirin), or cream sherry
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons vegetable stock, dashi, or water
1. Combine the miso, sake, mirin, sugar, and mayonnaise in the top of a double boiler and whisk until smooth. Gradually whisk in the stock. Cook the sauce over simmering water, stirring occasionally, until thick and creamy, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from over the water and let the sauce cool to room temperature.
2. Transfer to a serving bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 days. Serve at room temperature.
Makes about 1 1/2 cups
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