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Preserved Lemon Harissa

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NORTH AFRICA
Makes about 2 cups

Here’s a more sophisticated harissa flavored with fresh chiles and preserved lemons. The latter-one of the most distinctive flavors in Moroccan cuisine-are a sort of pickle made with fresh lemons and salt. You can buy them in North African and Middle Eastern markets and gourmet shops. A little of this intensely flavored pickle goes a long way.


   4 to 10 jalapeno chiles, or other hot chiles, such as serranos (for a milder sauce, seed the chiles)
   3 shallots, thinly sliced
   2 cloves garlic, peeled
   1 tablespoon lemons, chopped preserved
   2 tomatoes, large, fresh, ripe, peeled and seeded
   1 tablespoon paprika, hot or 1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper
   1/2 teaspoon cumin, ground
   3 tablespoons vegetable oil
   2 tablespoons lemon juice, fresh
   Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste


1. Place the chiles, shallots, garlic, preserved lemon, and tomatoes in a mortar and grind to a purée with the pestle, then work in the remaining ingredients, adding salt and pepper to taste. Or process all the ingredients at once in a blender. Go easy on the salt; the preserved lemon is already quite salty.

2. The harissa should be tart and spicy, but there should be more to it than just heat. Transfer to a bowl and serve immediately, or at least within 4 hours of making; serve at room temperature.

Makes about 2 cups

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