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French West Indian "Dog" Sauce / Sauce Chien

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FRENCH WEST INDIES
Makes about 1 cup

Sauce chien (literally, "dog sauce") is a sort of high-voltage vinaigrette served throughout the French West Indies. How did it get its odd name? One theory holds that the "dog" refers to the fierce bite of the chiles. Another refers to the fact that this is a humble sauce, made without the egg yolks, butter, or cream found in more "noble" French sauces. Whatever its origins, sauce chien is an indispensable accompaniment to grilled seafood, chicken, and vegetables throughout the French West Indies.


   2 cloves garlic, minced
   1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
   1/2 to 2 scotch bonnet chiles, seeded and minced (for a hotter sauce, leave the seeds in)
   1 shallot, minced
   2 tablespoons chives, finely chopped, fresh, or scallion greens
   2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped, fresh
   2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf)
   1/2 teaspoon thyme, chopped fresh
   Black pepper, freshly ground, to taste
   3 tablespoons lime juice, fresh, or more to taste
   1/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin
   1/4 cup water, boiling, or more as needed


1. Combine the garlic and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a mortar and grind to a paste with the pestle. Then pound in the chiles, shallot, chives, cilantro, parsley, thyme, pepper, and 3 tablespoons lime juice. Work in the oil, then add enough boiling water to obtain a mellow, pourable sauce. Or combine all the ingredients at once in a blender or mini chopper and run the machine in short bursts until just coarsely puréed. Taste for seasoning, adding salt or lime juice as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned.

2. Serve immediately, or at least no longer than 4 hours after making; serve at room temperature.

Makes about 1 cup

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