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_The Joy Of Soy |
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Soy sauce is made by fermenting soybeans, wheat, and salt in two stages. In the first stage, molds are mixed with a mash of wheat and soy, which is kept warm, moist, and aerated for about two days, over which time spores from the mold multiply, producing enzymes that break the mash down into individual proteins and sugars.
When the enzymes are at their height, the second stage of fermentation starts. At this point the oxygen in the mash has been depleted. A salt brine is added and the molds die, but their enzymes continue to work. Over the six months to a year that the soy sauce is aged, lactic acid bacteria and yeasts that thrive in an anaerobic environment flourish, feeding on the sugar and protein in the mixture and creating their own flavorful by-products. When the fermentation is done, the sauce is pressed and pasteurized.
China and Japan produce almost all of the world's soy sauce. Chinese soy sauces are made with more soy than wheat, Japanese with more wheat than soy. The higher the proportion of wheat in the fermentation, the sweeter the finished product will be. Tamari Japanese soy sauce is made entirely from soy, which is why it is touted for people with wheat allergies.
Both Japanese and Chinese soy sauces come in dark and light varieties. Light soy sauces are lighter in color, saltier, and thinner, and are used in smaller amounts as condiments. Dark soy is more pungent but less salty. It is used more often in cooking, where it lends its flavor and mahogany color to whatever food is simmered in it. "Lite" soy sauce is low in sodium; it should not be confused with light soy.
Buy only naturally fermented soy sauces. If the label doesn't say "fermented" or "brewed," it probably isn't. Many brands of cheap soy sauce are made by hydrolyzing softened, crushed soybeans with hydrochloric acid, neutralizing the acid, and filtering the result. This product never develops the depth of flavor of the real thing.
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