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_Dry-Pack, Day-Boat, Unsoaked Scallops |
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Unlike clams, oysters, and mussels, scallops cannot survive for long outside of the sea, so they are usually shucked on board and kept chilled until they can be sold. Many scallop fishing grounds are so far offshore that fishing trips commonly take several days, which is why wholesale scallop buyers will pay a premium price for the "last of the catch" or the "top of the catch." The same applies to scallops caught on shorter trips, where the entire catch is guaranteed to have been harvested within the last 24 hours; these scallops are often sold as "day-boat scallops."
For years, inexpensive scallops have been treated with sodium tripolyphosphate (STP) to reduce the amount of water that seeps from the scallops as they sit. STP, along with other phosphates, is part of a group of acceptable food additives categorized as GRAS (generally recognized as safe).
It wasn't long before fish sellers figured out that if a little STP could keep scallops from weeping, a lot could cause them to soak up extra water. And since water is cheaper than scallops, it started to make economic sense to "soak" scallops, which meant loading them up with STP and setting them in water until they absorbed as much water as they could hold. The FDA has put a limit on the level of soaking, but for culinary purposes, any amount is a bad idea.
When soaked scallops are cooked, the bonds that hold the water in suspension are broken and the added soaking liquid comes pouring out, causing the scallops to steam and making it impossible to sear them. In addition, phosphates have a briny flavor that muffles any sweetness that the scallop possesses naturally.
So buy only scallops with a descriptor on the label. It could say "dry-pack," "diver," "chemical-free," "day-boat," "unsoaked," "100% natural," or anything else that indicates the scallops have not been treated. If there is no descriptor, you can assume that the scallops have been soaked, and if they are labeled "water added," which means they have been soaked until their weight is more than 80 percent water, run in the opposite direction.
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