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_Dried Wild Mushrooms

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It takes about 10 pounds of fresh mushrooms to make 1 pound of dried mushrooms, which means that if you are substituting dried for fresh, 1 ounce of dried mushrooms equals about 9 ounces of fresh. Rehydration is easy: just soak as many mushrooms as you would like to cook in warm water that has a pinch of salt and a pinch of sugar in it. As soon as the mushrooms are tender (in about 20 minutes), they are ready to cook. Dried mushrooms never absorb quite as much moisture as they lost, so they tend to have a more concentrated flavor and a slightly tougher texture than fresh.




Some of the more commonly found dried wild mushrooms are:

* Black trumpet--This delicate black "chanterelle" is often infused into cream sauces, especially for pasta dishes. It is a delicious accompaniment to game meats.

* Chanterelle--The most familiar chanterelle is a golden apricot color and, like its relative the black trumpet, is shaped like a horn. Chanterelles have a natural affinity for light meats--poultry, pork, veal, or quail--and for eggs. They are also delicious in cream sauces and paired with starchy items like pasta or risotto.

* Morel--One of the most delicious and meatiest of wild mushroom, the morel also has a distinctive appearance. Its long, narrow cap is covered with deep folds, like a brain. It is a savory accompaniment to red meats and game.

* Oyster--Often described as having an oysterlike flavor, these mushrooms are very similar in flavor and texture to white button mushrooms. Like portobello and shiitake, they are so commonly available fresh that using them dried seems unnecessary.

* Porcini--Also known as cèpe or Boletus, porcini have an extremely rich flavor that complements almost any dish. In Europe, where they are highly prized, fresh porcini are eaten alone with a simple sauce, but the dried specimens are best used in a sauce for pasta or with other bland starches. They can range in color from pale tan to brown and should be flexible even when dried.

* Portobello--Known as cremini when young, this hearty mushroom adds flavor, texture, and color to almost any dish. Because portobellos are commonly available fresh, their function as a dried mushroom is negligible.

* Shiitake--Unlike other large mushrooms, which are often dried in slices, shiitakes are commonly dried whole. Because their stems are woody, they should be removed after soaking. Shiitakes have a meaty texture but a very delicate flavor; they can be paired with almost anything.


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