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Serves: 4
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ARGHANISTAN
Advance Preparation: 1 to 8 hour for chilling the kebabs
Special Equipment: 8 flat, wide, long metal skewers
Here’s the Afghan version of a ground meat kebab known elsewhere in the Muslim world as kofta, kubideh, and lyulya. The spicing reflects Afghanistan’s unique location at Asia’s crossroads: The cilantro and dill are characteristic of Central Asian cooking; the chiles and turmeric of the Indian subcontinent. Made with both lamb and beef, lulas are some of the most flavorful ground meat kebabs ever to grace a skewer. Serve them with pita bread, accompanied by Afghan Coriander Sauce and Central Asian Pickles.
1 pound ground lamb, lean
1 pound ground beef, lean, such as round or sirloin
1 onion, small, grated
1 to 2 serrano chile, or bird, minced (for milder kebabs, seed the chiles)
1 egg, large
3 tablespoons dill weed, minced fresh
3 tablespoons cilantro, minced fresh
2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
1 teaspoon cumin, ground, or more to taste
1/4 teaspoon turmeric, ground
1. Combine the lamb, beef, onion, chile, egg, dill, cilantro, 2 teaspoons salt, the pepper, 1 teaspoon cumin, and the turmeric in a large bowl. Knead and squeeze the mixture with your hands until thoroughly blended, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a large heavy skillet and set over very low heat. Cook just until the mixture is warmed through, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and let stand until completely cooled.
2. To test the mixture for seasoning, sauté a small amount of it in a nonstick skillet until cooked through, then taste, adding salt or cumin to the remaining mixture as necessary; it should be highly seasoned.
3. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. Divide the mixture into 8 equal portions. Lightly wet your hands with cold water, then, starting about 1 inch from the tip of a skewer, mold each portion around the skewer to form a flattish sausage 11 to 12 inches long and 1 inch wide. Using the fore- and middle fingers of one hand in scissors fashion, make a series of shallow ridges the length of the sausage, perpendicular to the skewer. Place each kebab as it is made on the prepared baking sheet, then cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 1 hour or as long as overnight.
4. If desired, set up the grill for grateless grilling. Preheat the grill to high.
5. When ready to cook, if not using the grateless method, generously oil the grate. Arrange the kebabs on the grill as described in the grateless method, or arange directly on the hot oiled grate. Grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes in all. Serve immediately.
Makes 8 kebabs; serves 8 as an appetizer, 4 as an entrée
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