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Flying Fox Sates / Sate' Kalong

Serves: 2

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INDONESIA
Advance Preparation: 1 to 2 hours for chilling the sate's
Special Equipment: 16 long bamboo skewers, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover and drained

This beef and garlic saté takes its curious name from the nocturnal mammal called the flying fox. The squirrel-like creature comes out at dusk, sailing from tree to tree on folds of skin that extend, parachute-like, from the sides of its body. That’s precisely the time of day that saté vendors traditionally set up shop in the town of Cirebon in northwestern Java.

Saté kalong is one of Indonesia’s most delicate kebabs, traditionally measuring 3 inches long and a mere 1/4 inch wide. (Lacking the patience of an Indonesian saté maker, I tend to make them a bit larger.) The pairing of sugar and garlic with beef may seem odd-until you stop to think about the sweet sauces that accompany American barbecue.


   10 ounces ground beef chuck or sirloin
   5 cloves garlic, minced
   3 tablespoons sugar, palm, or firmly packed light brown sugar, or more to taste
   1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
   1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground


1. Combine the beef, garlic, 3 tablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and the pepper in a large bowl, then knead and squeeze the mixture with your hands until thoroughly blended, 3 to 4 minutes. To test the mixture for seasoning, sauté a small amount of it in a nonstick skillet until cooked through, then taste, adding salt or sugar to the remaining mixture as necessary; the mixture should be both savory and a little sweet.

2. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. Divide the meat mixture into 16 portions. Lightly wet your hands with cold water, then mold each portion around a skewer, preferably in the traditional shape: a strip about 5 inches long, 1/2 inch wide, and 1/8 inch thick. To achieve the requisite flatness, pinch the meat between your thumb and forefinger. Place each saté as it is made on the prepared baking sheet, then cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours.

3. Preheat the grill to high.

4. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Arrange the satés on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through, 3 to 6 minutes in all. Serve immediately.

Makes 16 satés; serves 4 as an appetizer, 2 as a light entrée

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