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Serves: 4
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AZERBAIJAN
Special Equipment: 8 flat, wide, long metal skewers
Ground lamb kebabs are enjoyed throughout the Muslim world, from Sumatra to Marrakech, but they reach their apotheosis in Turkey, Iran, and the former Soviet republics of Central Asia. Lyulya is the Azerbaijani version, and the use of fragrant fresh basil and sweet-sour pomegranate seeds make it unique among the ground meat kebabs. This particular rendition, which comes from the restaurant in the Hyatt Regency in Baku, is served wrapped with fresh herbs in thin sheets of the paper-like Middle and Near Eastern flat bread called lavash. (Lavash is widely available in Middle Eastern markets and even many supermarkets.) The lavash
-a sort of edible napkin-makes these kebabs perfect finger fare for a cookout.
FOR THE KEBABS:
1 1/2 pounds ground lamb
1 onion, small, finely chopped
2 tablespoons whole wheat flour
1/4 cup parsley, coarsely chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf)
1/4 cup basil leaves, thinly slivered
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground, or more to taste
FOR SERVING:
4 pita bread or 2 large lavash
24 basil leaves, fresh
24 parsley sprigs, Italian (flat-leaf)
4 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 pomegranate, , large, broken into seeds
3 tablespoons sumac, , ground (optional; see Note)
1. Place the lamb and onion in a food processor and process until the onion is ground very fine. Add the flour, chopped parsley, slivered basil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper and process briefly to combine. To test the mixture for seasoning, sauté a small amount of it in a nonstick skillet until cooked through, then taste, adding salt or pepper to the remaining mixture as necessary; it should be highly seasoned. Transfer to a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
2. If desired, set up the grill for grateless grilling. Preheat the grill to high.
3. Line a baking sheet with plastic wrap. Divide the meat mixture into 8 equal portions. Lightly wet your hands with cold water, then mold each portion around a skewer to form a sausage about 12 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. Place each kebab as it is made on the prepared baking sheet (see Note).
4. When ready to cook, if not using the grateless grill method, generously oil the grate. Arrange the kebabs as described in the grateless method, or arrange directly on the hot oiled grate. Grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned on both sides and cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes in all.
5. Remove the kebabs to a platter and arrange the lavash in one layer on the grill grate. Grill just until warm and pliable, about 20 seconds per side. Remove from the grill and cut into 5 3 4 inch strips.
6. Use a strip of lavash to protect your hand as you slide each sausage off its skewer onto a platter. Cut each sausage into three 4-inch pieces. Wrap each piece, along with a whole basil leaf and a sprig of parsley, in a strip of lavash. Arrange the bundles on a serving platter and sprinkle with the sliced scallions and pomegranate seeds. Serve accompanied, if desired, by ground sumac.
Makes 24 pieces; serves 8 to 12 as an appetizer, 4 to 6 as an entrée
Note: If not planning to cook immediately, cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
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