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Serves: 4
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TRINIDAD
Despite the wide use of charcoal as a cooking fuel, Trinidadians aren’t particularly keen on grilling. One exception is corn. Stroll through Queen’s Park Savannah in Port of Spain at dusk and you’ll find large crowds at the corn vendors. They line up for crackling crisp ears of a mature variety of corn that most Americans would consider too large, old, and dried out for eating. But it’s these very defects that make the corn so munchable crisp and delicious.
Traditionally, the cooked ears are brushed with melted butter and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Inspired by a popular Trinidadian herb, I’ve come up with a more interesting topping: shadon beni butter. Shadon beni (literally "false cilantro") is a dark green, thumb-shaped, sawtooth-edged herb with a taste similar to cilantro. It’s generally sold in North America by its Hispanic name, culantro. (Look for it in Hispanic and West Indian markets.) But don’t despair if you can’t find shadon beni: cilantro makes an equally delicious butter. By the way, you can use shadon beni as a great topping for other simply grilled vegetables and seafood.
8 ears corn (the larger and older, the better)
8 tablespoons butter, salted (1 stick), at room temperature
3 tablespoons cilantro, or culantro, finely chopped, fresh
2 scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
1 clove garlic, minced
Black pepper, freshly ground, to taste
1. Preheat the grill to high.
2. Shuck the corn and set aside while you prepare the shadon beni butter.
3. Place the butter, culantro, scallions, garlic, and pepper in a food processor and process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl. Alternatively, if the herbs and garlic are minced really fine, you can stir them right into the butter in the bowl.
4. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Arrange the corn on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned all over, 8 to 12 minutes. As the corn cooks, brush it occasionally with the butter. Remove from the grill and brush once more with the butter. Serve immediately.
Serves 8
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