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Catalan Grilled Artichokes

Serves: 8

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SPAIN

La Tomaquera is a one-room chop-house in a working-class neighborhood in Barcelona. It’s the sort of place that takes pride in not serving Coca-Cola; the sort of place that closes early when there’s a soccer game on TV. For about $25, you could eat yourself into oblivion in this lively restaurant. For me that meant snails in a rich gravy, followed by an assortment of grilled beef, lamb, and other meats.

What most captivated me was an unusual vegetable dish, grilled artichokes-one of the best things I have eaten in my life. The long, low-heat grilling process renders the leaves so crisp, you can almost eat them whole. I know of only one other dish that makes artichokes so delectably crisp-Rome’s carciofi alla Giudia, artichokes in the Jewish style.

For best results, choose medium-size artichokes; you want ones with the leaves fairly spread open. You could also use baby artichokes, but if you do, cook them for a shorter amount of time. Avoid the dense jumbo globe artichokes, which are delicious boiled, but difficult to grill.


   8 fresh artichokes, medium
   1/2 lemon
   1 cup butter, unsalted (2 sticks)
   6 cloves garlic, minced
   1/4 cup parsley, minced fresh Italian (flat-leaf)
   Salt, coarse (kosher or sea)
   Black pepper, lots of cracked or coarse ground pepper


1. Preheat the grill to medium-low.

2. Cut the stems off the artichokes so they stand upright. Rub the bottoms with the lemon to prevent discoloring. Trim the spiny tips off the leaves with a scissors. Using your fingers, gently push the leaves apart to open the artichoke like a flower.

3. Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan over low heat, then add the garlic and parsley, increase the heat to medium, and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the garlic loses its rawness, about 3 minutes. Brush the artichokes all over with a generous amount of the butter mixture and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Pour a spoonful of the mixture over the top of each artichoke, letting it drip into the leaves.

4. When ready to cook, arrange the artichokes on the hot grate, stem sides down, and grill until the bottoms are a deep golden brown, rotating often with tongs to ensure even cooking. Baste often with the butter mixture and season generously with salt and pepper. You’ll need about 30 minutes to brown the bottoms.

5. Starting in the center, working with tongs, again spread the artichoke leaves out to open each artichoke like a flower. Baste with more garlic butter and season with more salt and pepper. Invert the artichokes and cook until a deep golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes more. The leaves should be crisp and should pull out easily; the heart should be tender (test it for doneness by inserting a skewer). If using a charcoal grill, add 25 fresh coals after 1 hour.

6. Turn the artichokes again (the bottoms should now be on the grate) and baste and season again. Cook a few more minutes to rewarm the bottoms. Drizzle the artichokes with any remaining garlic butter and serve immediately.

Serves 8

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