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Alexandrew Dumas's Georgian-Style Lamb Kebabs |
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Serves: 4
REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA
Advance Preparation: 1 to 8 hours for marinating the meat
Special Equipment: 4 long metal skewers
Alexandre Dumas was one of the most prolific and beloved novelists of the nineteenth century, writing such classics as The Count of Monte Cristo and The Man in the Iron Mask. What you may or may not know is that he was also a passionate trencherman, and in addition to penning a volume entitled Grand dictionnaire de cuisine, he wrote extensively about food encountered during his travels.
The following recipe was inspired by Dumas's travels through the Caucasus Mountains in 1859. Concerning the cooking equipment, he imparts some curious advice, quoted in Darra Goldstein's fine book The Georgian Table: "Even if you don’t have a skewer or happen to be traveling in a place where skewers are unknown, you can always substitute something else. Throughout my travels the cleaning-rod of my rifle served as a skewer, and I didn’t notice any harm to the worthiness of my weapon from using it in this humble role."
Amen!
I’ve embellished his original recipe, adding a traditional Georgian spice mix called khmeli-suneli. I think you’ll find the results incredibly aromatic; the ground marigold is available at markets specializing in Russian products.
Serve these kebabs with grilled tomatoes, Georgian Pickled Plum Sauce, and Georgian Pickles.
1/2 teaspoon coriander, ground
1/2 teaspoon dill weed, dried
1/2 teaspoon basil, dried
1/2 teaspoon mint leaves dried
1/2 teaspoon ground marigold (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 1/2 pounds leg of lamb, boneless, cut into 1-inch cubes (Dumas calls them "walnut size")
1 onion, medium sized, finely chopped
1 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil, for basting
2 tablespoons sumac, , ground, for serving (optional)
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1. Combine the coriander, dill, basil, mint, ground marigold (if using), 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl. Add the lamb and toss thoroughly to coat. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 30 minutes.
2. Add the onion and vinegar to the lamb, tossing again to mix well. Re-cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for at least another 30 minutes and up to 8 hours (the longer you marinate the lamb, the tangier it will be).
3. When ready to cook, thread the lamb onto the skewers. Oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well done. Brush the kebabs several times as they cook with oil and season with salt and pepper.
4. Unskewer the lamb onto serving plates and serve immediately, accompanied by ground sumac (if using) for sprinkling.
Serves 4
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