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Rack of Lamb Ciragan Palace |
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Serves: 4 Print this RecipeTURKEY Advance Preparation: 24 hours for marinating the meat The Ciragan Palace (pronounced "Chee-raan") is one of the world’s most celebrated hotels, an 11-acre pleasure palace (former summer home of Sultan Abdül Aziz) located on the banks of the Bosporus on the outskirts of Istanbul. There you can get an exquisite Ottoman meal at the hotel’s Turkish restaurant, Tugra, for about the same price that you’d pay at a bistro in New York. I’d spent the week sampling grilled lamb at kebab parlors and street stalls. What a nice change of pace it was to enjoy it in a formal dining room surrounded by chandeliers and sweeping views of the Bosporus. The chef starts with the most expensive of all cuts of lamb-tenderloin-which he marinates overnight in a mixture of olive oil, milk, and fresh onion juice. A sauce made of charred eggplant and yogurt reinforces the smoky flavor of the lamb. To be strictly authentic, you would use lamb tenderloin, but, since this costs a Sultan’s fortune, I’ve retooled the recipe for more affordable and readily available rack of lamb. My marinating the lamb in tightly sealed plastic bags is untraditional but effective. It keeps the onion aroma from permeating the refrigerator. FOR THE LAMB AND MARINADE: 2 racks lamb (3 to 4 pounds in all) 1 white onion, large, finely chopped (enough to make 1/2 cup juice) 1 cup milk, whole, or half-and-half 1 cup olive oil, extra-virgin 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground FOR THE EGGPLANT SAUCE: 1 cup plain yogurt, whole-milk 2 eggplant, slender (about 1 pound in all) 1 green bell pepper, small 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons butter, unsalted, at room temperature 1 teaspoon lemon juice, fresh, or more to taste Salt, to taste Black pepper, freshly ground, to taste 1. Trim most of the fat off the lamb, then scrape the rib bones clean with a sharp paring knife (or have your butcher do it). Place each rack in a large, heavy-duty plastic bag with a zip-lock closing and set aside while you prepare the marinade. 2. Process the onion in a blender or food processor to a smooth purée, then strain through a strainer lined with a double layer of dampened cheesecloth into a medium-size bowl; you should have about 1/2 cup juice. Whisk in the milk, oil, and pepper. Pour half the mixture over each rack of lamb in its plastic bag, then seal the bags and turn over several times so the racks are coated with the marinade. Place in the refrigerator for 24 hours, turning the bags several times. 3. About 4 hours ahead of time, set a yogurt strainer, or a regular strainer lined with a double layer of dampened cheesecloth, over a small bowl. Add the yogurt to the strainer and let drain, in the refrigerator, until a firm "cheese" forms. 4. When ready to continue with the sauce, preheat the grill to high. 5. Arrange the eggplants on the hot rack and grill, turning with tongs, until charred all over and the flesh is very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. About 20 minutes before the eggplant is done, add the pepper to the grate and grill, turning with tongs as necessary, until charred all over and soft. Transfer the charred vegetables to a plate and let cool. 6. Using a paring knife, scrape the skin off the cooled eggplant and pepper; stem and seed the pepper. Combine the vegetables in a food processor with the garlic, yogurt cheese, butter, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Process to a smooth purée, then transfer to a small, heavy saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat and cook until thick and creamy, about 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and taste for seasoning, adding salt or lemon juice as necessary; the sauce should be highly seasoned. Keep the sauce warm, covered (see Note). 7. If using a gas grill, reduce the heat to medium-high; if using charcoal, the grill should now be at medium-high. If not, bump up the heat with 20 to 24 fresh coals. 8. When ready to cook, drain the lamb, reserving the marinade. Season each rack generously with salt, then oil the grill rack. Arrange the lamb on the hot grate, bone side up. Grill until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 10 to 15 minutes per side, turning with tongs as needed to prevent burning; at the end, stand each rack upright to grill the ends. Baste the racks with the reserved marinade during the first 15 minutes of cooking only. 9. Transfer the racks to a cutting board and let stand 5 minutes before carving. Spread the warm sauce over serving plates or a platter. Carve each rack into chops and arrange on top of the sauce. Serve immediately. Serves 4 Note: The sauce may be made up to 24 hours ahead of time. Refrigerate, covered, then reheat in a small saucepan over low heat on the stovetop, or on a corner of the grill grate, just before serving. This recipe comes from the Cook'n collection. Try Cook'n for FREE!
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