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Mexican Pit-Barbecued Lamb / Barbacoa

Serves: 8

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MEXICO
Advance Preparation: 4 to 8 hours for marinating the lamb, plus about 4 hours cooking time
Special Equipment: 8 to 10 fresh or dried avocado leaves (optional; dried leaves soakes for 20 minutes in cold water to cover)

Mexico’s answer to barbecue, barbacoa: It is intriguingly delicious and easy to adapt for the backyard barbecue grill. I’ve chosen a recipe for Oaxacan-style barbacoa, featuring a guajillo chile marinade and a wrapping of avocado leaves. The latter can be found dried at Mexican markets and gourmet shops and impart a pleasant anise-like flavor. But don’t worry if you can’t find avocado leaves, because the lamb will still be quite delectable barbecued without a wrapping.

Barbacoa is served in two courses: first the soup (flavored with lamb drippings), then the lamb, which is eaten with tortillas.


   FOR THE ADOBO (Spice Paste) AND LAMB:
   12 guajillo chiles (see Notes)
   2/3 cup garlic, coarsely chopped
   1/2 onion, medium sized, coarsely chopped
   1 teaspoon oregano, dried
   4 cloves, whole
   4 allspice berries, whole
   2 pieces cinnamon sticks, whole (1/2 inch) or 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
   2 teaspoons salt
   1/2 cup white vinegar, distilled
   1/2 cup water
   1 leg of lamb, bone-in (4 to 5 pounds), trimmed of any paper skin
   FOR THE CONSOMME:
   2 onions, medium sized, cut into 1/2-inch dice
   4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
   2 zucchini, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch dice
   2 pieces squash, calabaza (West Indian pumpkin) or butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
   1 cabbage, small green, cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice
   2 tomatoes, large fresh, cut into 1/2-inch dice
   2 potatoes, medium, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice
   2 ears corn, shucked and cut into 1/2-inch rounds (optional)
   4 bay leaves, 2 sprigs cilantro, and 2 sprigs epazote (optional), tied in a piece of cheesecloth


1. Prepare the adobo. Stem the chiles, tear open, and remove the veins and seeds. Soak in water to cover until soft and pliable, about 20 minutes. Drain the chiles and place in a blender with the garlic, onion, oregano, cloves, allspice berries, cinnamon, salt, vinegar, and water. Process to a smooth paste.

2. Using the tip of a paring knife, make a series of slits in the lamb, 1/4 inch deep and 1 inch apart. Smear the chile paste all over the lamb, working it into the slits, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 4 to 8 hours (the longer the better).

3. Set up the grill for indirect grilling and preheat to medium-low.

4. Assemble the consommé. Combine the onion, carrots, zucchini, calabaza, cabbage, tomato, potato, corn (if using), herb bundle, and water in a large fire-proof pot.

5. You’re now ready to assemble the barbacoa. Place the consommé pot in the center of the grate that holds the charcoal, or if using gas, the grill grate (away from the heat). Place a metal rack, like a sturdy cake rack, on top and layer with half the avocado leaves, if using (see Special Equipment); if not using, oil the rack. Place the lamb on top of the leaves, fat side up, and carpet it with the remaining avocado leaves. Cover the grill tightly.

6. Cook the barbacoa until the lamb is fall-off-the-bone tender, 3 to 4 hours. If using a charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side every hour. When the lamb is done, the internal temperature will be about 170°F.

7. To serve the barbacoa, discard the top layer of avocado leaves and transfer the lamb and bottom layer of leaves to a platter. Let sit for 5 minutes, then thinly slice the meat or cut it into chunks. Remove the herb bundle from the consommé, then, using a ladle, skim off any fat floating on the surface of the soup. Stir in the chopped cilantro, chipotle, and salt and pepper; the soup should be highly seasoned. Serve the consommé first, then the meat. Accompany both with tortillas and salsa.

Serves 8

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