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The Real Turkish Shish Kebab

Serves: 4

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TURKEY
Advance Preparation: 24 hours for marinating the meat
Special Equipment: 6 long metal skewers, including 2 flat ones for the vegetables

Shish kebab is Turkey’s most celebrated kebab (although the average Turk eats it far less often than ground lamb kebabs). There are probably as many versions in Turkey as there are individual cooks. This one-from the restaurant Develi in Istanbul-owes its tangy flavor to a 24-hour soak in olive oil and yogurt.

Contrary to American versions of the dish, Turkish shish kebab rarely comes with vegetables on the same skewer as the meat. Rather, the vegetables are grilled on separate skewers, so each can be cooked the proper length of time.

For the tenderest possible kebabs, use lamb tenderloin or loin. You can also use leg or shoulder, but the kebabs will be a little tougher. It doesn’t hurt to intersperse lean pieces of lamb with a few fatty pieces; the fat will tenderize the lean meat as it melts.


   1 cup plain yogurt, whole-milk
   1/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin
   2 cloves garlic, minced
   1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or 2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper flakes
   1 teaspoon salt
   1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
   1 1/2 pounds boned loin of pork, or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
   8 tomatoes, fresh, ripe plum or small round tomatoes
   12 bull's horn peppers (see Glossary), stemmed
   2 tablespoons sumac, , ground, for serving (optional)
   4 pita bread


1. Combine the yogurt, oil, garlic, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper in a nonreactive bowl. Add the lamb and toss to coat thoroughly. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 24 hours, stirring once or twice.

2. Preheat the grill to high.

3. When ready to grill, remove the lamb from the marinade and thread onto the thin skewers, alternating lean and fatty pieces. Thread the tomatoes onto a separate, flat skewer and the peppers onto another flat skewer. Oil the grill grate, then arrange all the kebabs on the hot grate, and grill, turning with tongs, until the skins on the vegetables are blistered and browned and the lamb is browned and done to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all) for well-done.

4. Using a pita to protect your hand, unskewer the lamb and vegetables onto serving plates, dividing the vegetables evenly. Serve immediately, accompanied by sumac (if using) for sprinkling.

Serves 4

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