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Souvlaki Flambeed With Metaxa

Serves: 4

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GREECE
Advance Preparation: 6 to 24 hours for marinating the meat
Special Equipment: 4 long metal skewers

Souvlaki is the Greek version of shish kebab, a popular street food consisting of lamb bathed in a tangy marinade of olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, and bay leaves and grilled over blazing coals. The retsina (a Greek wine flavored with resin) isn’t strictly traditional, nor is flambéeing the souvlakis with Metaxa (Greek brandy). But both beverages would be served at a Greek barbecue, and both add flavor and drama to the meat. The purist could omit them. Serve the souvlaki with pita bread, Yogurt-Cucumber Salad with Mint, and A Different Greek Salad.


   1/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin, preferably Greek
   1/4 cup wine, retsina, or dry red
   1/4 cup lemon juice, fresh
   4 bay leaves
   3 cloves garlic, minced
   1 teaspoon oregano, dried, preferably Greek
   1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
   1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground, or more to taste
   1 1/2 pounds leg of lamb, boneless or shoulder of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes (include some fatty pieces)
   1 onion, medium, cut into 1-inch pieces
   1/3 cup brandy, Metaxa (Greek), or other brandy
   Lemon wedges, for serving
   4 pita bread, for serving


1. Combine the oil, wine, and lemon juice in a large nonreactive bowl and whisk to blend. Stir in the bay leaves, garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper. Add the lamb and toss to coat thoroughly, then cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for at least 6 hours and up to 24 hours.

2. Preheat the grill to high.

3. When ready to grill, remove the lamb from the marinade, reserving the marinade, and thread onto the skewers, alternating with onion pieces. Oil the grill grate, then arrange the kebabs on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until nicely browned and cooked to taste, 8 to 12 minutes in all, for well done (as Greeks tend to like their lamb). Brush the kebabs as they cook with the reserved marinade (but not during the last 3 minutes), and season with salt and pepper.

4. Transfer the souvlakis to a heatproof platter. Warm the brandy in a small saucepan over very low heat; do not allow it to boil or even become hot. Remove from the heat and then, making sure your sleeves are rolled up and hair is tied back, light a long match and use it to ignite the brandy, averting your face as you do so. Very carefully pour the flaming brandy over the souvlakis and serve immediately, accompanied by lemon wedges and pitas.

Serves 4

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