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Sri Lankan Sates

Serves: 4

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SRI LANKA
Advance Preparation: 30 minutes to 6 hours for marinating the chicken
Special Equipment: 40 to 50 short bamboo skewers, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover and drained

Most people associate satés (aka satays) with Southeast Asia, particularly with Indonesia, Malaysia, or Singapore. Imagine my surprise at finding them on the menu of Taprobane, a Sri Lanken restaurant in Manhattan. (Taprobane was an early name of the island.) The notion isn’t as far fetched as it might seem. The principle of kebabs seems to have arrived in Indonesia with Arab traders in the twelfth century a.d. Sri Lanka certainly could have been a stopping point on the way.

This Sri Lankan version of saté features a lively marinade of coriander and paprika. It comes with an equally lively sauce, gilded with turmeric and enriched with coconut milk. I like the bite provided by hot paprika, but sweet paprika is easier on the taste buds.


   FOR THE CHICKEN:
   1 1/2 pounds chicken breasts, skinless, boneless
   1 tablespoon paprika, hot or sweet
   2 teaspoons coriander, ground
   1 teaspoon salt
   1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground
   2 cloves garlic, minced
   3 tablespoons vegetable oil
   FOR THE SAUCE:
   3 tablespoons vegetable oil
   1 onion, large, thinly sliced
   1 tablespoon ginger, minced fresh
   2 cloves garlic, minced
   1 teaspoon cumin, ground
   1 teaspoon coriander, ground
   1/2 teaspoon paprika, hot, or cayenne pepper
   1/2 teaspoon turmeric, ground
   Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
   1 cup coconut milk, canned or homemade
   2 teaspoons white vinegar, distilled, or more to taste


1. Rinse the chicken breasts under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Cut the breasts lengthwise (with the grain) into 2 1/2-inch-long strips and place in a large bowl. Add the paprika, coriander, salt, and pepper, and garlic rubbing into the meat with your fingers. Stir in the oil to coat thoroughly, cover, and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 30 minutes or up to 6 hours (the longer the better).

2. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce. Heat the oil in a medium-size saucepan over high heat. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, the turmeric, and salt and black pepper. Sauté for 1 minute, stirring to coat the onion with the seasonings. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the onion, stirring occasionally, until very soft and a deep golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Stir in the coconut milk and 2 teaspoons vinegar. Simmer until you have a thick, spoonable sauce, about 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning, adding salt or vinegar as necessary; the mixture should be highly seasoned. Remove from the heat and set aside.

3. Preheat the grill to high.

4. Weave the chicken strips lengthwise onto the skewers.

5. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Arrange the satés on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs, until lightly browned and cooked through, 1 to 3 minutes per side (2 to 6 minutes in all).

6. Transfer the satés to serving plates or a platter and spoon a little sauce over each. Serve immediately.

Makes 40 to 50 satés, enough to serve 6 as an appetizer, 4 as an entrée

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