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Buccaneer Chicken / Poulet Boucane'e

Serves: 8

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GUADELOUPE
Advance Preparation: 24 hours for marinating the chicken
Special Equipment: 1 pound fresh sugarcane, split lengthwise, or 1 1/2 cups hardwood chips, soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover and drained

When the Europeans first came to the wilds of Hispaniola, they observed a singular style of cooking. The Carib Indians would cure wild boar and other game with salt and spices, then dry it over a smoky fire. The Carib word for this technique sounded to European ears like "boucan." As for the first Europeans to practice this style of cooking, they were shipwrecked sailors and religious iconoclasts, who hid out in the wilds of what is now northwestern Haiti. They became known as the buccaneers. Poulet boucanée (buccaneer-style chicken) remains popular in the French West Indies.

This recipe may seem a little involved, but actually it’s a series of simple steps. The only tricky part will be finding sugarcane, and thanks to exotic produce companies, like Frieda’s Finest, fresh cane can be found at many supermarkets and specialty produce shops. Other good outlets include Hispanic and Asian markets.

The following recipe is designed for a charcoal or gas barbecue grill. If you have a patio-style smoker, you can smoke the chicken in it, using sugarcane instead of wood chips. For any type of cooker, if you can’t find sugarcane, use the chips.


   2 chicken (each 3 1/2 to 4 pounds), quartered
   3 limes
   8 cloves garlic, crushed
   1 bunch scallion, both white and green parts, trimmed and coarsely chopped
   1 onion, small, finely chopped
   1/2 cup parsley, chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf)
   1 to 3 hot peppers, scotch bonnet, or other hot peppers, thinly sliced (for a milder marinade, seed the chiles)
   1 teaspoon thyme, chopped fresh or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried
   1 tablespoon cloves, whole
   2 teaspoons peppercorns, black
   2 teaspoons allspice berried
   1 cinnamon stick (3 inches long)
   1 nutmeg, whole
   6 cups water
   1 cup rum, dark
   1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
   3 tablespoons salt
   2 tablespoons brown sugar, firmly packed


1. Rinse the chicken pieces under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Set aside while you prepare the marinade.

2. Cut the limes in half and squeeze the juice into a large nonreactive bowl. Toss in the lime rinds, then add the remaining ingredients and stir until the salt and sugar are dissolved. Add the chicken pieces and turn to coat with the marinade, then cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 24 hours.

3. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, placing a drip pan in the center. If using a charcoal grill, preheat it to medium.

If using a gas grill, place the sugarcane in the smoker box and preheat the grill to high; then, when smoke appears, lower the heat to medium.

4. When ready to cook, if using charcoal, toss all the sugarcane on the coals. Remove the chickens from the marinade, discarding the marinade, and blot dry. Oil the grill grate, then arrange the chicken pieces, skin side down, on the hot grate over the drip pan. Cover the grill and cook the chicken until the juices run clear when the tip of a skewer or sharp knife is inserted in the thickest part of a thigh and the breast meat near the bone shows no trace of pink, 1 to 1 1/2 hours (see Note). If using charcoal, add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side after 1 hour.

5. Transfer to serving plates or a platter and serve immediately; or refrigerate, covered, to serve cold later.

Serves 8

Note: Because the chicken is smoked rather than grilled, the meat near the joints may remain a little pink, even when the chicken is fully cooked.

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