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Grilled Quail Santorini

Serves: 4

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GREECE
Advance Preparation: 1 to 2 hours for marinating the quail
Greek Oregano: The quail will be tastier if you ferret out Greek oregano at a Greek or Middle Eastern market. Greek oregano has a richer, mintier flavor than supermarket brands.

Santorini is one of the most heartachingly beautiful of the Greek islands, a collapsed shell of volcano on whose steep sides cling whitewashed villas and churches. The island has given its name to an equally romantic restaurant in Chicago’s Greektown, a softly lit, split-level dining room where guests dine amid copper cookware, rustic wicker chairs, baskets hanging from the rafters, and a blazing fireplace. Quail is a house specialty here, and despite the simplicity of the preparation, this is one of the best ways I know to prepare the tiny bird.


   8 quail, (about 2 pounds in all)
   1/2 cup red wine vinegar, or more to taste
   1/2 cup lemon juice, fresh
   1 1/2 teaspoons oregano, crumbled, dried
   2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste
   2 teaspoons black pepper, freshly ground, or more to taste
   3/4 cup olive oil, extra-virgin, preferably Greek


1. Remove and discard the fat just inside the body cavities and rinse the quail, inside and out, under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Spatchcock the quail. Arrange the quail, skin side down, in a nonreactive baking dish and set aside while you prepare the vinaigrette marinade.

2. Combine 1/2 cup vinegar, the lemon juice, oregano and 2 teaspoons each salt and pepper in a large bowl and whisk until the salt is dissolved. Whisk in the oil to blend. Taste for seasoning, adding salt, pepper, or vinegar as necessary; the mixture should be highly seasoned. Pour half the vinaigrette over the quail, turning the birds to coat thoroughly. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, for 1 to 2 hours, turning once or twice. Reserve the remaining vinaigrette until serving time.

3. Preheat the grill to high.

4. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Remove the quail from the marinade and arrange them skin side down, on the hot grate. Grill until nicely browned and the juices run clear when the tip of a skewer or sharp knife is inserted in the thickest part of a thigh, about 4 to 6 minutes per side (8 to 12 minutes in all).

5. Transfer the quail to serving plates or a platter and serve immediately, accompanied by the reserved vinaigrette.

Serves 4

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