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Serves: 4
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URUGUAY
The term pamplona refers to stuffed, rolled, grilled meats popular at Uruguayan steak houses and barbecues. Almost any meat is a candidate for stuffing, especially chicken, pork, and veal. (Beef is considered so noble, it’s generally cooked by itself.) The fillings are limited only by your imagination. This recipe was inspired by a Mercado del Puerto restaurant called El Talero (named for the leather truncheon that’s part of a cowboy’s equipment). The prunes, ham, pepper, and egg make this a particularly colorful stuffing. The juxtaposition of sweet prunes and salty ham gives an orchestral range of flavor.
In Montevideo, these rolls would be wrapped and cooked in caul fat, a lacy membrane of fat from the belly of a pig. Caul fat is often used in charcuterie for wrapping sausages and pâtés. If you want to try using it here, ask for it at butcher shops. Caul fat doesn’t have much of a flavor, but as it cooks the fat bastes the meat. The olive oil in the recipe below supplies a similar moistness.
Don’t be intimidated by the prospect of making stuffed roll-ups; this one can literally be assembled in 5 minutes-even if you’ve never stuffed a chicken breast before. It’s a failproof recipe, and the results will look like a million bucks.
Each whole skinless, boneless chicken breast called for here must be in one piece-breast halves just won’t do.
Serve with one of the chimichurris in the sauce chapter.
2 chicken breasts, whole, skinless, (12 to 16 ounces each)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon oregano, dried
1/2 red bell pepper, medium, stemmed, and seeded
1 slice smoked ham (1/4 inch thick), cooked or smoked (about 1 1/2 ounces)
1 egg hard-cooked, peeled
12 pitted prunes
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, for brushing
1. Rinse the chicken breasts under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Spread the breasts open, smooth side down and with one long side facing you, on your work surface. Cut out the fillets (the long, slender strip of meat on each half breast) and set aside for another use (see Note). Season the breasts with salt, pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of the oregano.
2. Cut the bell pepper lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips. Cut the ham into 1/4-inch strips; cut the hard-cooked egg into 6 lengthwise wedges. Arrange the pepper and ham strips, flat on the opened breasts. Place the egg wedges and prunes lengthwise on top, leaving a 1/2-inch border on each side.
3. Starting at the side facing you, roll each breast up to form a compact cylinder. Pin the rolls closed with short metal skewers or tie with butcher’s string as follows: Tie the string around one end of each roll and then wrap it around the roll until you reach the other end; tie the ends to secure. Rub the outsides of the rolls with the oil and season with salt, pepper, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon oregano. Place the pamplonas on a platter, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to grill, up to 6 hours.
4. Preheat the grill to medium-high.
5. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Arrange the pamplonas on the hot grate and grill, turning with tongs and basting with a small amount of the oil, until nicely browned, firm to the touch, and a skewer inserted in the center of each comes out very hot to the touch, 20 to 30 minutes in all.
6. Transfer the pamplonas to a cutting board. Traditionally, pamplonas are served whole on plates, but I like to cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch slices, fanning the slices out on serving plates or a platter to create a mosaic effect. Let rest for 5 minutes before removing the skewers or string.
Makes 2 pamplonas; serves 6 as an appetizer, 2 to 4 as an entrée
Note: One good use for the fillets would be any of the satés.
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