Most people think of sturgeon as the source of fine caviar or as smoked fish for bagels. But in the former Soviet Union, this whiskered, prehistoric-looking fish is a popular item for grilling, as I quickly discovered during a day of restaurant-hopping in the Brighton Beach area of Brooklyn, New York’s "Little Odessa." Sturgeon has a mild sweet flavor and firm, almost gelatinous consistency, and its dense texture makes it ideal for grilling on skewers, as here, or as steaks. If you live in an area with a large Russian community (in the Pacific Northwest or in Minnesota), you may be able to find it fresh. Monkfish has a similar texture. Another possibility is swordfish, which has a much softer consistency but tastes equally delicious prepared in this fashion.
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