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Of Koftas, Lyulas, and Seekh |
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Arabs call them koftas. Iranians call them kubideh. Afghanis and Azerbaijanis know them as lula (or lyulya kebab), while Indians and Pakistanis call them seekh kebabs. Whatever you call them, ground meat molded on a skewer and grilled is one of the world’s most popular treats.
Kofta country begins in Morocco and stretches as far east as Bangladesh. Perhaps even further-you could certainly argue that Indonesia’s ground beef and lamb satés are actually a sort of kofta. The name, main ingredients, and flavorings change along the way, but the result remains the same. That result is a sort of skinless sausage. The secret is to mold a sausage-shaped span of meat on a flat metal skewer and cook it over a grateless grill.
At its simplest, kofta consists merely of ground lamb or beef flavored with onion, garlic, and parsley. Sometimes egg or cracked wheat is added to give the kebab a firmer consistency. Sometimes the meat is kneaded by hand in a pan over a low flame to create the close-knit texture of fine fabric. Cooks in the Balkans and Iran add baking soda or selzer water to make their mititeis and cevapcicis (the Balkan kofta) light.
The spicing, too, reflects the country of origin. As you move east, the cumin and paprika popular in Morocco give way to cinnamon and mint in the Middle East. Kebabi men in Central Asia flavor their lula kebab with hot peppers, dill, and cilantro. Indians turn to the evocative flavors of ginger, cumin, and turmeric to give their seekh (ground lamb) kebab pizzazz.
In this chapter, you’ll find many variations on a theme of ground meat grilled on a stick. To be strictly authentic, you’d cook these kebabs using the grateless grilling technique. If you’re careful and you oil the grate well, you can also cook the kebabs directly on the grate.
Recipe from The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen Copyright 2009 by Steven Raichlen. All rights reserved. Used by permission of Workman Publishing.
Grilling Indoors
The Birth of the Kettle
Pit Cooking
What to look for in a Grill
Types of Charcoal
Cooking with Wood
Cleaning and Oiling the Grill
When to cover the Grill
When to use a Drip Pan
Making crosshatch grill marks
The Ten Commandments of Perfect Grilling
How to grill with out a grate
Barbecue Countdown
The Afghan Grill
The Vietnamese Grill
Stalking the Elusive Grilled Snail
The Tale of Three Barbecues: The Thai Grill
How to make ricw powder
How to rinse and dry Cilantro
Mesclun Mix
How to prepare fresh coconut
How to toast seeds, nuts, and breadcrumbs
Grilled Rujak
How to rinse salad greens
Larding the Beef
How to grill a perfect steak
In pursuit of the best Tuscan Steak
Butterflying a Flank Steak
Matambre: A hunger-killer from South America
On trimming fat from meat
Hawkers' Center
The Argentinian Grill
How to Butterfly Short Ribs for Korean-Style Grilling
Pork the Italian Way
How to Butterfly Pork or Beef
Jerk: The Jamaican Barbecue
A Traditional Barbacoa
The Moroccan Grill
How to Unskewer Shish Kebabs
A Special Word About Ground Meat, Burgers, and Sausages
Cooking Hamburgers
From Hamburg to Hoboken: A Brief History of the Hambuger
Grinding It Out
How to Stuff Sausages Like a Pro
Of Koftas, Lyulas, and Seekh
The Turkish Grill
Sumac
Aleppo Pepper
How to Grill the Perfect Whole Chiken
A Marinating Tip
How to Spatchcock a Chicken or Game Hen
How to Grill Perfect Chicken Halves and Quarters
How to Cut Up a Chicken
Uruguay's Mercado Del Puerto
How to Grill Perfect Chicken
Bombay Tikka "Taco"
The Splendid Resaurant Karim
To Render Chicken Fat
Grating Citrus Peel
How to Make Scallion Brushes
The Macanese Grill
How to Grill the Perfect Whole Fish
How to Dry Fennel Stalks
How to Grill a Whole Grilled Fish
A New French Paradox
The Most Famous Fish House in Indonesia
A Few Shark and Bake Tips
How to Grill the Perfect Fish
How to Skin and Bone Fish Fillets
Whole Fish, Tikin Xik Style
How to Grill Perfect Fish Fillets
Sturgen
When You’re Feeling Less Than Brave
How to Peel and Devein Shrimp
The Brazilian Grill
How to Grill Perfect Vegetables Every Time
Grate Expectations: Some Tips on Grilling Vegetables
The Japanese Grill
Black Gold
Raclette
The Indian Grill
Basmati Rice Five Ways
A Day with Najmieh Batmanglij: The Persian Grill
Stuck on Sate: The Indonesian Grill
The Four Styles of American Barbecue
Barbecue Alley: The Mexican Grill
A Griller's Guide to the World's Chiles
Cooking With a Blowtorch
Barbecue from the Land of Morning Calm:
Approximate Times for Rotisserie Cooking
Beef Grilling Chart *
Pork Grilling Chart
Lamb Grilling Chart
Ground Meats Grilling Chart
Poultry Grilling Chart*
Fish Grilling Chart*
Shellfish Grilling Chart*
Vegetable Grilling Chart*
Vegetable Grilling Chart*
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