Here’s how Luccia D’Ambrosio explains the preparation of her rosemary-roasted pork loin, which is popular throughout Tuscany and Umbria.
"Every Friday, Aiello buys three whole young pigs, each weighing sixty pounds, which he bones through the belly, using a razor-sharp knife. It’s my job to prepare the spice mix, a fragrant paste of garlic, salt, pepper, and fresh rosemary, which I pound in a mortar with a pestle. I stuff the cavity of the pig with this mixture, tucking it into all the nooks and crannies, then sew the pig up with a giant needle and string. The meat marinates overnight with the herb mixture-the salt both flavors and cures the meat.
"The next day, Aiello builds a fire of Tuscan oak and lets it die down to glowing red coals. The pigs are roasted for three to four hours, and when they’re finished, they’re tender enough to cut with a fork."
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