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Panisses (Chickpea Fries)

Serves: 24

To Americans who love fine restaurants, the word Panisse means Chez Panisse, Alice Waters's seminal restaurant in Berkeley. To French movie lovers, it refers to a character (after whom the restaurant is named) in the beloved Marcel Pagnol film trilogy of Fanny, Cesar, and Marius, who, in turn, was named for these Provençal chickpea flour "fries." Cooks familiar with polenta will recognize the procedure: The flour is cooked into a thick mush, cooled, then cut into sticks before frying. Serve panisses with grilled marinated lamb steak to make a variation of the bistro classic "steak frites."
Makes about 14 "fries"

   1 1/2 cups homemade or low-salt canned chicken broth
   1 1/2 cups water
   1 teaspoon salt
   1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
   1 1/2 cups chickpea flour
   Olive oil for deep-frying


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1. Thoroughly oil an 8-by-11-inch baking dish. In a medium, heavy saucepan, combine the broth, water, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil over high heat. Whisking constantly, gradually add the chickpea flour. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer the chickpea mixture, whisking constantly, until thick and smooth (it will seem that the lumps will never disappear), about 5 minutes. Scrape into the prepared pan and spread evenly with an oiled spatula or pat smooth with oiled hands. Let cool completely.

2. Hold a baking sheet over the dish and invert to un mold the cooled chickpea mixture onto the sheet. Using an oiled sharp knife, cut lengthwise into thirds, then crosswise into eighths to make 24 "steak fry"-shaped panisses.

3. Preheat the oven to 200°F. Place a wire cake rack over a jelly roll pan. Into a deep Dutch oven, pour oil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches. Heat it to 365°F over high heat. In batches, without crowding, deep-fry the panisses until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a wire-mesh skimmer, transfer the panisses to the wire rack and keep warm in the oven while frying the rest. Serve immediately.





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