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* Poultry

Italian cooks have a wide range of poultry to choose from. In addition to chicken and turkey, capon, pheasant, guinea hen, duck, goose, pigeon, quail, and other birds are readily available.

Until after World War II, chicken was not widely eaten in Italy. Poultry was expensive, and a live chicken could produce eggs for a farm family either to eat or sell. Chickens were killed only when they became too old to lay eggs, when someone in the family was ill and needed extra nourishment, or for special feasts. Many of today's recipes for chicken were once made with wild birds or with rabbit.

For Christmas and other holidays, Italians often serve capon. The flavor of capon is similar to chicken, though deeper and richer. Roasted capon with a meat or bread stuffing is eaten all over Italy. In Emilia-Romagna, capons are roasted and stuffed or boiled to make broth in which to cook tiny hand-formed tortellini. One traditional recipe from the Veneto is capon cut into pieces, seasoned with herbs, and steamed in a pig's bladder to hold in the flavors. In Piedmont, capons are stuffed with truffles and boiled or roasted for holiday meals. A small turkey or large roasting chicken can be substituted for capon, if preferred.

Most of the recipes in this chapter are for chicken and turkey because the supply of those in the United States is reliable and consistent. For good chicken and turkey flavor, I prefer to use freerange poultry raised without antibiotics. Though organic and free-range birds are more expensive, they taste better, have a better texture, and are better for you.

No matter which type of poultry you will be cooking, remove the giblets, liver, and any other parts packed inside the cavity or in the neck area. Rinse the bird well inside and out. Occasionally, you will see still-attached pinfeathers, which should be removed, either with your fingers or with tweezers. Some types of poultry, such as chicken, capon, and duck, have excess fat that can be pulled or cut out of the cavity. If the bird will be cooked whole, bend the wing tips behind the back. Insert any stuffing or flavoring ingredients, then tie the legs together with kitchen string for a neat appearance and more even cooking.

Some chickens, turkeys, and other large birds come with a small thermometer inserted in the breast. These devices are often inaccurate, as they can become clogged with cooking juices. It is best to rely on an instant-read thermometer to check for doneness. Chicken, turkey, and capon are done when the juices run clear when the thigh is pierced with a fork and the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh is 170° to 175°F (for capon, 180°F) on an instant-read thermometer. Be sure that the thermometer does not touch the bone (or the temperature may read higher than that of the meat). Quail, goose, and duck are eaten well done in Italy, with the exception of duck breast. When pan cooked, duck breast is usually served medium rare.



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CHICKEN CUTLETS (SCALOPPINE)
Chicken Cutlets Francese
Chicken Cutlets with Basil and Lemon
Chicken Cutlets with Sage and Peas
Chicken with Gorgonzola and Walnuts
Salad-Topped Chicken Cutlets
Chicken Rolls with Anchovy Sauce
Chicken Rolls in Red Wine

CHICKEN PARTS
Devil's Chicken
Crusty Broiled Chicken
Marinated Grilled Chicken
Baked Chicken with Potatoes and Lemon
Country-Style Chicken and Vegetables
Chicken with Lemon and White Wine
Chicken with Sausages and Pickled Peppers
Chicken with Celery, Capers, and Rosemary
Roman-Style Chicken
Chicken with Vinegar, Garlic, and Hot Pepper
Tuscan Fried Chicken
Chicken with Prosciutto and Spices
Chicken in the Style of the Hunter's Wife
Chicken with Porcini
Chicken with Olives
Chicken Livers with Vin Santo

WHOLE CHICKEN AND CAPON
Roasted Chicken with Rosemary
Roasted Chicken with Sage and White Wine
Chicken in the Style of Roast Pig
Roasted Chicken with Marsala and Anchovies
Stuffed Roasted Capon
Stuffed Chicken in Ragù
Roasted Boiled Chicken
Chicken Under a Brick
Lemon Chicken Salad
Chicken Salad with Two Peppers
Piedmont-Style Chicken Salad

TURKEY, DUCK, AND QUAIL
Rolled Stuffed Turkey Breast
Poached Turkey Meat Loaf
Turkey Rolls in Red Wine Tomato Sauce
Duck Breast with Sweet-and-Sour Figs
Spiced Roasted Duck
Quail in the Pan with Porcini
Grilled Quail
Quail with Tomatoes and Rosemary
Braised Quail

From "1,000 Italian Recipes." Copyright 2004 by Michele Scicolone. Used with permission of the publisher, Wiley Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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