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Serves: 4
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REPUBLIC OF GEORGIA
Advanced Preparation: 20 minutes for soaking the grape leaves
One of the most intriguing grilled fish dishes I’ve ever enjoyed is a Georgian specialty called kolheeda. Named for a mythical gold mine in the Caucasus Mountains, kolheeda features a boned whole salmon trout stuffed with walnuts and dill, wrapped in grape leaves, and grilled. The grape leaves impart a delectable tartness to the fish, while offsetting the richness of the walnuts. They also keep the fish from drying out.
This recipe was inspired by Nancy and Gogetidze Gelody of the Pearl Café in Brighton Beach, Brooklyn, New York. I’ve called for salmon fillets, which are easier to get than salmon trout in most parts of the country, but do use salmon trout, if you can find it. Grape leaves preserved in brine are available in jars at Middle Eastern markets and most supermarkets
Kolheeda makes an excellent introduction to Georgian cuisine, not to mention a dramatic dish for entertaining.
__ to 24 grape leaves packed in brine, drained
_ salmon fillets (each about 6 ounces and 3/4 inch thick), skinned and checked over for bones
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
_ c walnuts, shelled
_ clove garlic, chopped
_ tbs dill weed, chopped fresh, or 1 tablespoon dried
_ tbs cilantro, chopped fresh or Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
_ tbs lemon juice, fresh, or more to taste
_ lemons slices, paper-thin
1. Rinse the grape leaves thoroughly under cold running water, then place in a bowl with cold water to cover and let soak for 20 minutes, changing the water once or twice. Drain the grape leaves and blot dry with paper towels.
2. Meanwhile, rinse the fillets under cold running water, then drain and blot dry with paper towels. Place the fillets on a cutting board. Holding the knife parallel to the cutting board, cut a deep pocket in one long side of each fillet, starting and ending about 1 inch from each end and cutting almost but not quite through to the other side. Season the fillets, inside and out, with salt and pepper, then set aside while you prepare the stuffing.
3. Combine the walnuts, garlic, dill, cilantro, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice in a food processor and process to a coarse paste. Taste for seasoning adding salt, pepper, and lemon juice as necessary; the mixture should be highly seasoned. Spoon the stuffing into the pockets in the salmon, dividing evenly.
4. Working with one piece of fish at a time, arrange 2 or 3 grape leaves on a work surface to form a rectangle 2 inches larger than the piece of fish; the grape leaves should overlap slightly. Place the piece of fish on the grape leaves. Place a lemon slice on top of each piece of salmon. Cover the fish with the remaining grape leaves, tucking the ends under.
5. Preheat the grill to high.
6. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Place the wrapped fish on the hot grate. Grill the fish until the grape leaves are nicely browned and the fish is cooked through, 3 to 6 minutes per side, testing for doneness by inserting a thin metal skewer into the thickest part of the fish; if it comes out very hot to the touch, the fish is cooked.
7. Using a spatula, transfer the fish to plates or a platter and serve at once. Unwrap and discard the grape leaves before eating.
Serves 4
Note: The recipe can be prepared to this point several hours ahead of time; refrigerate, covered.
Recipe from The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen Copyright 2009 by Steven Raichlen. All rights reserved. Used by permission of Workman Publishing.
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