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Serves: 4
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Advance Preparation: 4 to 8 hours for marinating the ribs
Special Equipment: 2 cups wood chips (preferably hickory), soaked for 1 hour in cold water to cover and drained
It never fails to amaze me how one simple idea can give birth to so many great regional variations. Consider ribs. The pork rib is one of the most perfect morsels ever to grace a dinner plate. The meat is generously marbled, which keeps it moist during the prolonged cooking. As the fat melts, it crisps the meat fibers and bastes the meat naturally. The bones impart a rich meaty flavor (meat next to the bone always tastes best), while literally providing a physical support-a gnawable rack on which to cook the meat. Yet depending on whether you eat ribs in Birmingham or Kansas City, or Bangkok or Paris for that matter, you’ll get a completely different preparation.
I’ve always been partial to Memphis-style ribs. Memphians don’t mess around with a lot of sugary sauces. Instead, they favor dry rubs-full-flavored mixtures of paprika, black pepper, and cayenne, with just a touch of sugar for sweetness. The rubs are massaged into the meat the night before cooking, by way of a marinade, then sprinkled on the ribs at the end of cooking. This double application of spices creates incredible character and depth of flavor, while at the same time preserving the natural taste of the pork. Sometimes a vinegar-and-mustard-based sauce-aptly called a "mop" sauce-is swabbed over the ribs (with said mop) during cooking; I’ve included one here, for you to use if you like.
You can use any type of rib for this recipe: baby back ribs, long ends, short ends, rib tips, you name it (for more on these cuts, ).Times are approximate. The ribs are done when the bones extrude and the meat is fork tender.
FOR THE RIBS AND RUB:
_ rack pork ribs (4 to 6 pounds baby back ribs or 6 to 8 pounds spareribs)
___ c paprika
_ 1/2 tbs black pepper, freshly ground
_ 1/2 tbs brown sugar, dark, firmly packed
_ tbs salt
_ 1/2 tsp celery salt
_ 1/2 tsp garlic powder
_ 1/2 tsp dry mustard
_ 1/2 tsp cumin, ground
FOR THE MOP SAUCE (Optional):
_ c cider vinegar
___ c mustard, yellow (ballpark)
_ tsp salt
1. Remove the thin, papery skin from the back of each rack of ribs by pulling it off in a sheet with your fingers, using the corner of a kitchen towel to gain a secure grip, or with pliers. Combine the ingredients for the rub in a small bowl and whisk to mix. Rub two thirds of this mixture over the ribs on both sides, then transfer the ribs to a roasting pan. Cover and let marinate, in the refrigerator, 4 to 8 hours.
2. Set up the grill for indirect grilling, placing a large drip pan in the center. If using a charcoal grill, preheat it to medium.
If using a gas grill, place the wood chips in the smoker box and preheat the grill to high; when smoke appears, reduce the heat to medium.
3. When ready to cook, if using charcoal, toss half the wood chips on the coals. Oil the grill grate. Arrange the ribs on the hot grate over the drip pan. Cover the grill and smoke-cook the ribs for 1 hour.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the mop sauce (if using). Mix together the mustard, vinegar, and salt in a bowl and set aside.
5. When the ribs have cooked for an hour, uncover the grill and brush the ribs with the mop sauce (if using). If using a charcoal grill, toss the remaining wood chips on the fire. Continue cooking the ribs until tender and almost done, 1/2 to 1 hour longer for baby back ribs, somewhat longer for spare-ribs. If using charcoal, after 1 hour add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side to the grill. The ribs are done when the meat is very tender and it has shrunk back from the ends of the bones. Fifteen minutes before the end, season the ribs with the remaining rub, sprinkling it on.
6. To serve, cut the racks in half, or for a plate-burying effect, just leave them whole.
Serves 6
Note: I like my ribs served dry, in the style of Memphis’s legendary barbecue haunt, the Rendezvous. If you want to serve them with a sauce.
Recipe from The Barbecue! Bible by Steven Raichlen Copyright 2009 by Steven Raichlen. All rights reserved. Used by permission of Workman Publishing.
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