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Balinese Roast Pork / Babi Guling |
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Serves: 6
INDONESIA
Special Equipment: Rotisserie (optional)
Frying Chiles: The fumes from frying this spice paste can be irritating to people who are sensitive to chiles. Be sure your exhause fan is running on high.
Babi guling (spiced roasted pig) is the most famous dish in Bali. Traditionally, babi guling is made with a whole suckling pig that has been stuffed with a fragrant bumbu (spice paste) and spit-roasted over a barbecue. Lemongrass, turmeric, galangal, and coriander make this one exquisitely flavorful pork dish.
The following recipe comes from one Iingah Kepidana, Balinese pit master extraordinaire, who showed me how to pound the ingredients for the spice paste in a tub-size mortar with a pestle the size of a baseball bat. Kepidana cooks his babi guling over fire in a half 55-gallon drum, turning the rickety spit by hand.
I’ve retooled the recipe to be made with boneless pork shoulder. Long Bean Salad with Fresh Coconut and Balinese Yellow Rice make great accompaniments.
1 pork shoulder blade roast, boneless (about 3 pounds)
4 shallots, large, peeled
2 to 4 jalapeno chiles, or 4 to 8 Thai chiles
4 cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons ginger, chopped fresh
1 tablespoon turmeric, chopped fresh or 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon galangal, , chopped fresh or additional ginger
3 stalks lemongrass, , fresh, trimmed and finely chopped (about 1/4 cup), or 3 strips lemon zest (each 2 x 1/2 inches; removed with a vegetable peeler)
1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, finely ground
2 tablespoons lime juice, fresh
1 tablespoon light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 teaspoons salt
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, or more as needed
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1. Using a sharp, heavy knife, cut a deep pocket in one side of the roast, starting and ending about 3/4 inch from each end and cutting almost all the way through to the other side. Set the roast aside while you prepare the spice paste.
2. Combine the shallots, chiles, garlic, ginger, turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, coriander, pepper, lime juice, sugar, and salt in a mortar and pound to a smooth paste with the pestle. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, combine all the ingredients in a food processor or mini chopper and process to a smooth paste.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the spice paste and sauté until fragrant and shiny, about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes.
4. Spread half the cooled spice paste into the pocket you cut in the side of the pork roast. Tie the roast, using butcher’s string at 1-inch intervals, or pin the opening shut with metal skewers. Using a rubber spatula, spread the remaining paste over the entire surface of the roast and set aside while you prepare the grill.
5. Rotisserie method: Set up the grill for the rotisserie and preheat the grill to high. When ready to cook, skewer the roast lengthwise on the rotisserie spit and let it rotate on the grill until nicely browned on all sides and cooked through, 1 to 1 1/2 hours, brushing with the remaining oil as needed. (If using charcoal, add 10 to 12 fresh coals per side after 1 hour.) When tested with an instant-read meat thermometer, the internal temperature should read 190°F for very well done. (This is the way Indonesians prefer their pork.)
Indirect grilling method: Set up the grill for indirect grilling, placing a drip pan in the center, and preheat to medium. When ready to cook, oil the grill grate. Place the roast on the hot grate over the drip pan, cover, and cook until nicely browned on all sides and the internal temperature is 190°F, 1 1/2 to 2 hours, basting with the remaining oil occasionally. (Here, too, if using charcoal, add fresh coals, as per above.)
6. Transfer the roast to a cutting board or platter, removing it from the spit first, if necessary, and let stand for 10 minutes, then remove the string or skewers and cut the roast into thin crosswise slices to serve.
Serves 6 to 8
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