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A more misunderstood culinary term than "curry" would be hard to find. In Indian languages, curry means "a dish with a sauce," not any dish that has a teaspoon or two of a store-bought commercial blend of spices called curry powder in it--a blend that was probably originally put together by the British to recreate Indian flavors in their own kitchens.
The word curry is believed to be an English pronunciation (or should I say, mispronunciation) of the south Indian Tamil (the language of Tamilnadu, formerly Madras) word kari, which simply means a sauce, and was probably coined sometime during the British Raj, or rule, in India (1858 to 1947). Today, curry has become almost synonymous with Indian cuisine.
Because a curry is a saucy dish, this term includes all dishes with a sauce--whether the sauce is thick or thin or simply clings to the foods. A true curry, as understood by Indians, is a dish that results from the long, slow simmering of special masala pastes (see the Kitchen Basics chapter), dried herbs, and spices with different foods, where all the juices and flavors intermingle and develop as the foods cook in them. This meaning of curry also holds true in other parts of the world, such as Sri Lanka, Thailand, and Myanmar (Burma)--other countries where curries are part of the cuisine.
Curries can be enjoyed any time of the day with any meal; they add necessary moisture to the meal. Sometimes full-bodied and spicy, made with onions and garlic or without, with tomatoes and cream or nuts and yogurt, the far-reaching culinary category of curries--similar to, say, salads or soups--can be simple or complex.
Most cooks who make curries regularly don't measure or follow recipes. They add handfuls of whatever appeals to them and is on hand at the moment-much to the frustration of someone trying to learn or recreate a particular taste from a past meal (as I know from experience). Once you are familiar with the art of curry making and understand how certain spices and foods work together, making a curry will seem quite simple--which is why Indian cooks around the world rely on them as staples.
At the base of most curries lies a wet masala, also called masala paste, such as Spicy Yellow Curry Paste or Basic Curry Paste without Onion (see Kitchen Basics). The paste is made with anyone or more aromatic and elemental flavor ingredients, such as tomatoes, ginger, garlic, and onions, which are sweated and cooked until they slowly break down and their flavors become concentrated. As each ingredient evolves, it blends with the others to form a distinctive sauce. Fortifying and enriching the wet ingredients are a selection of dry masalas in the form of spices and herbs. Then there are some volume-adding liquids, such as buttermilk, yogurt, cream, water, and broth. From all these essential flavor components come the true character and final flavor of each curry.
One unique kind of curry, called kadhi, deserves special mention. Each community has its own versions, each flavorful and worthy of culinary exploration. At the base of most kadhis is a yogurt and a thickener, such as chickpea flour or dal (beans, lentils, or peas). These yellow or white saucy dishes, with a variety of greens, vegetables, or batter dumplings in them, are satisfying, soothing, and delicious. Kadhis are mild and delicate enough to be soothing, yet can be tangy and spicy enough to be addicting and memorable.
Keeping Western food trends and eating habits in mind, where many baked, roasted, or grilled foods are served with gravy created separately from the dish, this chapter begins with a few classic stand-alone curry sauces that are the backbone of Indian cuisine. You can make them separately and add them to your dishes. However, in Indian cuisine, these sauces are usually further simmered with other foods, such as steamed vegetables, koftas (fried vegetable or meat balls), or tikkas (grilled boneless meats, paneer cheese, or chunks of vegetables).
In this chapter I offer Indian vegetarian classics and some new recipes from my kitchen, after years of experimenting with foods available in the United States. (Non-vegetarian curries made with meat, chicken, or fish, are in the Non-Vegetarian Fare chapter, dried bean curries are in the Beans, Lentils, and Peas chapter, and paneer cheese curries are in the Paneer Cheese chapter.)
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CURRY SAUCES
Classic Spicy Curry Sauce
Butter-Cream Sauce with Fresh Tomatoes
Yogurt-Cream Sauce with Nuts
Minty Green Curry Sauce
CLASSIC VEGETABLE CURRIES
Curried Fresh Peas or Corn and Potatoes
Whole Cauliflower in Traditional Curry Sauce
Spicy Okra Curry
Crispy Fried Okra in Yogurt Sauce
Eggplant Curry with Sambar Powder
Curried Eggplants with Hot and Spicy Lentil Nuggets
Bitter Melon Curry
Simple Turnip Curry
Curried Baby White Turnips with Turnip Greens
South Indian Pumpkin Curry with Split Pigeon Peas
Kerala Cucumber Curry
Mushrooms in Almond and Poppy Seed Sauce
Anaheim Peppers in Spicy Tamarind Sauce
Hyderabadi Tomatoes in Spicy Tamarind Sauce
Hyderabadi Spicy Eggplants with Roasted Peanut and Sesame Sauce
Stuffed Bell Peppers in Tomato-Cream Sauce
Onion Wedges in Curry Sauce
POTATO CURRIES
Rajasthani Potato Curry
Pot-Roasted Fried Whole Potatoes in Yogurt Curry
Minty Pot-Roasted Potato Curry
Haridwar Potato Curry
Curried Almond and Poppy Seed Potatoes
Yogurt and Potato Curry
Diced Potato Curry with Pickling Spices
Quick Potatoes and Peas Curry with Tomato Sauce
GREENS ENTRÉES
Spicy Puréed Spinach Greens
Spinach, Fenugreek Greens, and Broccoli
Punjabi Mustard Greens
Mustard Greens with Cauliflower Florets
SAVORY FRUIT CURRIES
Green Mango Curry
Mango Curry with Split Pigeon Peas
Watermelon Whites in Tomato and Onion Sauce
Peach Halves in Savory Ginger-Peach Sauce
Curried Jackfruit
MIXED VEGETABLE CURRIES
Kerala Mixed Vegetable Curry
Mixed Vegetables in Tomato-Cream Sauce
Hot and Tangy Goan Mixed Vegetables
Sindhi Mixed Vegetables with Split Pigeon Peas
VEGETABLE BALL CURRIES (Kolta)
Zucchini Balls in Creamy Tomato Sauce
Stuffed Potato Balls in Tomato and Coconut Chutney Curry
Spinach Balls in Green Curry
Lotus Root Balls in Classic Curry Sauce
NUGGET AND CHICKPEA FLOUR CURRIES
Curried Soybean Nuggets
Soybean Nugget Curry with Red Bell Peppers
Spicy Lentil Nugget Curry with Potatoes
Chickpea Pancakes in Curry Sauce
Spicy Curried Chickpea Drops
Punjabi Chickpea Drops Curry
Rajasthani Chickpea Flour Bits in Yogurt Sauce
Punjabi Chickpea Flour Bits in Curry Sauce
SPECIAL YOGURT CURRIES
Quick Punjabi Yogurt Curry
Nani Mama's Yogurt Curry with Onion Fritters
Spicy Yogurt Curry with Spinach Ribbons
Fenugreek Yogurt Curry with Fritters
Soupy Gujarati Curry
Sindhi Tamarind Curry with Vegetables
Buttermilk and Cucumber Creamy Curry
South Indian Yogurt Curry
South Indian Yogurt and Coconut Milk Curry with Vegetables
From "1,000 Indian Recipes." Copyright 2002 by Neelam Batra. Used with permission of the publisher, Wiley Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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