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Tagliarini Soufflé |
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Serves: 6 (Soufflé di Tagliarini)Category: Dried Pasta with Cheese and Eggs Some recipes reach my kitchen in a roundabout way. My friend Arthur Schwartz shared this unusual one with me. He learned it from his cooking school partner, Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta, who in turn learned it from her mother, Elvira. The Baratta family lives in Battipaglia, in the province of Salerno, where Cecilia's father was in the tomato packing business. But for the duration of World War II, the family lived in Parma, where it was much safer. Elvira (at age 91) still cooks many dishes from Parma and claims to have created the idea of a pasta soufflé while living in that region, though in fact other versions do exist. Cecilia points out that northern Italians hardly have a monopoly on egg pasta and cream sauces, no matter what the rest of us think. What is different about this recipe is that it is made with dried egg pasta rather than fresh. Look for tagliarini, cappellini, or cappelli di angelo, though ordinary thin egg noodles would work as well. The lemon flavor makes the dish seem even lighter than it is. Print this Recipe BÉCHAMEL SAUCE 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups milk 3/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Finely grated lemon zest from 1 lemon Lemon juice from 1 lemon 4 large eggs, separated Salt 8 ounces dried tagliarini, or another fine dried egg pasta, broken into 3-inch lengths 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 egg white 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain dry bread crumbs
1 Prepare the sauce: Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour using a whisk and let cook for 2 minutes. 2 Whisking constantly, add the milk. Bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Allow to cool slightly before stirring in the nutmeg, salt, pepper, lemon zest, and juice. 3 Scrape the mixture into a large mixing bowl and let cool to room temperature. (Or, if you are in a hurry, cool the mixture by placing the bowl in another bowl filled with ice water.) Stir in the egg yolks, mixing thoroughly. 4 Bring about 3 quarts of water to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons of salt, then the pasta. Boil it until it is only half done. The pasta will be flexible but still hard in the center. Drain well. Transfer the pasta back to the pot it was cooked in and toss with 2 tablespoons of the remaining butter. Let the pasta cool slightly. 5 Place a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Using 1 tablespoon of the remaining butter, grease a 9 × 9 × 2-inch baking dish. Sprinkle with about 1/4 cup of the bread crumbs, coating the dish well. 6 In a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whites into the béchamel sauce. With a rubber spatula, fold the sauce into the pasta a little at a time. Work carefully so as not to deflate the whites too much. Scrape the mixture into the prepared baking dish. 7 Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons bread crumbs. Dot with the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter. 8 Bake for 30 minutes or until the soufflé is puffed and lightly golden. 9 For maximum lightness, cut into squares and serve immediately. The soufflé will sink slightly as it cools. From "1,000 Italian Recipes." Copyright 2004 by Michele Scicolone. Used with permission of the publisher, Wiley Publishing, Inc. All Rights Reserved. |
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